Thursday, 17 May 2018

A riot of colour: rainbow vegetables with soba noodles


I believe in eating the rainbow: choosing colourful vegetables to enhance a meat-free diet. The best cooking emerges from shopping well. Look for purple and white carrots, burgundy cauliflowers, or ivory aubergines. 

Here I've used inky mangetout, golden courgettes, sun coloured tomatoes, pale mauve aubergines, a symphony in yellow and purple, on a bed of pink soba noodles. 

Soba noodles are a great go to for quick meals: they cook in a couple of minutes. They are supposed to be eaten cold or lukewarm, which may not sound delicious but in reality are. Plus they are gluten-free. I hope you enjoy this simple but tasty riot of colour as a healthy lunch for two. 
Rainbow vegetables with soba noodles pic: Kerstin Rodgers

Rainbow vegetables with soba noodles


Ingredients

Serves 2-3

1 large mauve aubergine, in thin strips
1tbsp Salt
3tbsp olive oil
1 large yellow courgette, in thin strips or slices
100g purple mangetout
100g pink soba noodles
half a dozen or so small yellow tomatoes, quartered
a handful of coriander leaves
a sprinkle of poppy seeds
Juice of half a lemon or lime


Preheat the oven to 200C). Use a mandolin to slice the aubergine and courgettes into very thin strips and season with salt. Cover a baking tray with olive oil and lay out the aubergine slices. Roast for ten minutes on the top shelf until golden. Remove the aubergines, replace with the courgettes. Roast for five minutes. Remove from the oven.

Bring a medium sized saucepan to the boil. Place the purple mangetout in a steamer, sieve or colander that fits on top of the saucepan. Steam, with the lid on, for ten minutes or so. The mangetout should be cooked but still retain their snap. Remove the mangetout and set aside. Put the soba noodles in the boiling water for a minute or two. Using another colander or sieve, strain the noodles under running cold water. Toss with a little oil (you could use sesame oil or olive oil).
On a bed of the noodles, layer the aubergines, courgettes, mangetout, tomatoes and add fresh coriander leaves and poppy seeds. Salt to taste and squeeze over half a lemon or a lime.

Rainbow vegetables with soba noodles pic: Kerstin Rodgers
Rainbow vegetables with soba noodles pic: Kerstin Rodgers




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Thursday, 10 May 2018

Edible flower recipes for May



Three cornered leek and cornflower potato salad pic: kerstin Rodgers/msmarmitelover.com


Rose and cucumber chilled soup pic Kerstin Rodgers/msmarmitelover.com

At the end of May, London enjoys seasonal fixture the Chelsea Flower Show. While it's early in the season for edible flowers, don't forget them as flavourful and beautiful enhancements for your food. Three-cornered leeks, cornflowers and roses, all of which are edible, are currently blooming in my garden.



Tips for using edible flowers:

  • Picking flowers for eating is much like identifying fungi: ensure you know exactly what the flower is, don't make assumptions.
  • Don't use poisonous flowers such as anything from the nightshade family (potatoes, aubergines, peppers). 
  • Take into account where you found it: for instance don't pick flowers by the roadside where they have been subjected to car fumes or pets.
  • Pick only unsprayed flowers from a trusted garden rather than from supermarkets or flower shops.
  • Only use flowers in prime condition.
  • Remember you won't get fruit if you eat the flowers of courgettes, beans and squash (but they are so delicious you may want to sacrifice a few vegetables).
  • It's best to pick in late morning: the dew will have lifted so they aren't soggy, but the sun won't have started to dry out the petals.
  • Watch out for bugs: enclose the flowers in a paper bag and most insects will crawl out. For edibles like courgette flowers, prise open the flower carefully and look inside. 
  • Remove the stamen from larger flowers.
  • Cut off the bitter white part of the rose petal. 
  • If you are unused to eating flowers, don't eat too many.

Flowers to try:

Violas and violets are good for decoration, crystallisation and scent.
Day lilies can be steamed. Their blazing colours are great in stir fries.
Borage for decorating salads and drinks. In the Middle East it's used as a tea.
Nasturtiums are well known, adding a peppery colour to salads.
Marigold petals are good for your skin and excellent scattered over bread, or salads.
Courgette flowers, stuff with soft cheese and deep fry.
Squash flowers make a traditional Mexican soup.
Pinks have petals which can be used as edible decoration.
Rose petals: rose was ubiquitous before the importation of vanilla. Use the flavour sparingly. For use in baking, to grind with spices to make Ras el Hanout or rose harissa.
Geranium flowers and leaves to use in salads.
Pelargoniums: you can use the scented leaves (some are rose or lemon scented) to line sponge cakes.
Bean flowers which taste just like the raw bean itself (but not sweet peas).
Crocus stamens are of course one of the world's most treasured spices, saffron.
Hibiscus flowers make a refreshing drink when infused in water and also lower blood pressure. They are used as an ingredient in Mexican cooking, to stuff enchiladas.
Elderflowers, fried in delicate batter, used as a syrup over ice creams and cheese cake.

Herb flowers:


Mauve chive flowers to flavour and add colour to soft cheeses.

Rosemary blossoms are a good addition to garlic mushrooms.
Lavender flowers for flavouring sugar or cakes.
Thyme flowers can be added to pasta dishes.

Recipes:


Three cornered leek and cornflower potato salad


Serves 4-6

2kg new potatoes, scrubbed, skins left on

50g salted butter
Three cornered leek leaves or wild garlic leaves, shredded
300ml sour cream
1tbsp salt
A large handful of pea shoots

Garnish:

Cornflower petals or, later in the year, fennel flowers which add a lovely aniseed flavour.

Method:

Boil the potatoes in salty water for 20 minutes or until tender. I don't peel new potatoes, the goodness is in the thin skins.
Strain and mix with butter.
Add the leaves and the sour cream.
Season and garnish.


Rose and cucumber chilled soup

This is a refreshing summer soup, an English gazpacho if you will.

Serving suggestion: serve in pretty teacups.


Ingredients:

2 large cucumbers
300ml plain yogurt (or creme fraiche)
Juice 1/2 lemon
Handful of wild garlic leaves if in season or 1 garlic clove, minced
30ml olive oil, plus more for drizzling
Salt
Fresh ground white pepper

To garnish:

Rose petals, white tip removed, rolled up and cut in a 'chiffonade'
Wild garlic flowers or 3 cornered leek flowers

Method:

In a blender, combine the cucumber with the yogurt, lemon juice, wild garlic, and olive oil. Blend until smooth. Season with salt and white pepper, cover and refrigerate for 2 hours.
Season the soup again just before serving. Pour the soup into bowls. Garnish with the rose petals and wild garlic flowers.

Friday, 4 May 2018

Jerseys off and on


Throughout April, I've been yearning for Jersey Royal new potatoes. In usual conditions, the season starts at the end of March but the 'Beast from the East' has delayed them by a month. I visited the island of Jersey a few years ago where I met dedicated farmers who would get up, in the middle of the night, to wrap their precious potatoes in fleece, if there was a chill. This year, fields remained covered till late spring.

I was struck by the amount of work that goes into growing Jersey Royals. Each and every one of these tiny spuds is chitted, sorted, graded, planted, ploughed, by hand, on steep slopes or 'cotils', where it is impossible to use machinery. Each cotil is intimately known by the farmers; which ones suffer from frost, where the soil is dry or wet, sandy or loamy. The yield is often very low which is why they are known as the champagne of the potato world.

The flavour is in the skins, a slight coppery flavour, evoking newness and freshness. Their distinctive taste comes from the fact that they are mulched with seaweed or 'vraic'.

It's an important crop for Jersey: fifty percent of the export market is comprised of royals. They command a premium price, but the UK is pretty much the only market, although the French are being worked upon. (The skins might be a stumbling block to gaining popularity in France; I once cooked new potatoes, leaving on the skins, for Parisian friends who were horrified by this practice.)

Other seasonal vegetables include sprouting broccoli, tipped with purple florets, artichokes and cheery green peas. Don't forget neglected vegetables from the sea - samphire. 


Jersey Royal Potato Salad




The easiest way to achieve nude spuds is to rub off their skins with a clean tea towel after they are cooked. When wild fennel is in season, use the flowers to decorate the salad. 


500g Jersey Royals

3 heaped tbsp full fat crème fraîche
1/2 bulb fennel, finely sliced, include fronds
Handful of samphire (often available at fishmongers)
Zest of 1 lemon

Boil the potatoes, skins on, in a salted pan of water. Once tender, drain and slip off the skins. Very tiny potatoes keep whole; larger ones, cut in half. Add the creme fraiche while the potatoes are still hot, ten add the finely sliced fennel and the samphire. Finally scatter some lemon zest and season to taste. Can be served lukewarm or cold. 


Sautéed Potatoes




Waxy potatoes, for instance Charlotte or Yukon Gold or my choice here, the red-skinned, yellow-fleshed Ruby Gem, work very well shallow-fried. 

3tbp olive oil

500g potatoes, sliced 1/2 cm thick, skins on
200g sprouting broccoli, separated into florets
50g fresh or frozen peas
2 cloves garlic, minced
A handful of artichoke hearts in oil, sliced in half
1 preserved lemon, finely diced
Salt
Pepper

Pour the olive oil into a frying pan, once hot, add the sliced potatoes. They will take at least 10 minute to cook, add the broccoli after 5 minutes, then the peas, garlic and finally the artichoke hearts and preserved lemon. Season to taste and serve hot. 


Mousseline with Truffle




Chef Joel Robuchon famously transformed humble mashed potato into a Michelin-star experience. His technique is time-consuming but worthwhile for a velvety rich purée.

  • Use La Ratte or waxy potatoes.
  • Baking rather than boiling the potatoes dries out the flesh for a fluffy interior. To further dry them, you could bake them on a bed of coarse salt, a technique used for another great dish - the Canary Island style 'papas arrugadas'.
  • Use a special sieve called a 'tamis', a potato ricer or fine sieve.  On no account use a blender or food processor, which turns mash into glue. 
  • Use half as much butter as potato, so weigh the potato once baked and peeled.
  • Continually beat in the cold butter otherwise the butter melts and the dish becomes greasy. 

500g of potatoes (when peeled this is around 340g)
160g of cold salted butter, cut into small squares (or use unsalted butter and add salt)
Dash of whole milk
Optional: truffle salt/oil or shaved truffle

Bake the potatoes (with skin) in the oven at 200°C for 45 minutes. Peel and pass through a sieve or a potato ricer. Do both while the potatoes are hot. Put the mash in a small pan on a low heat. Using a wooden spoon, add a few pieces of butter at a time. Beat vigorously and constantly. Finally, add a dash of milk to loosen. Season and serve.