Sunday, 23 November 2014

Stir up Sunday: plum and ginger duff recipe

I always forget how easy it is to make a steamed pudding. It seems like a pfaff...finding a pudding bowl, paper, string, cloth, setting it in a water bath to cook. But while this is a very slow method of cooking, once you have gathered the ingredients and unearthed the equipment, withdrawn from neglected corners of your kitchen, it's effortless. You stir it all into a greased and sugared bowl, no fuss, and leave it to cook for three hours or so.
Traditionally pudding were boiled in a cloth tied at the top and then hung to dry and mature so if you don't have a pudding bowl you can shape your pudding in that way. But I do love ceramic pudding basins, such as these from Mason Cash, which you can buy in different sizes. I've used a '24'. If you aren't eating it on the day but saving the pudding for Christmas, re-heat by steaming for an hour and a half. Turn it out of the bowl and douse with plum brandy such as Umeshu which is a delicious Japanese plum liqueur, or Slivovitz, an Eastern European plum brandy. Light the pudding.
For the plums, it's a little early for the South African season which starts in December which is a shame because South African plums are so much easier to handle, not having a clingstone, a right pain to remove from the fruit.

Serves 6-8

150g self raising flour
100g of candied ginger
100g sultanas
100g breadcrumbs
100g dark brown sugar
100g vegetarian suet or freeze the equivalent amount of butter and grate it. 
1 tsp mixed spice powder
1/2 tsp nutmeg
250g plums, stones removed, sliced thinly
1 apple, cored, grated
75ml dark rum
2 eggs
225ml milk
Plum brandy for dousing

Mix the flour, Sultanas, breadcrumbs, sugar, suet, spices together then add the fruit (plums and apple) the rum, the eggs and the milk.
Thickly butter a size 24 pudding bowl and sprinkle with sugar (this helps it to be lit if you want to set fire to it when serving). Butter and sugar a piece of greaseproof paper big enough to cover the top of the pudding bowl. Then pour in the batter. Cover the bowl with the greaseproof paper then a layer of tinfoil. Smooth it down so that it makes a seal. Then tie a string around the lip of the pudding bowl, knot it and make a ‘handle’ by looping the string over to the other side of the bowl then tying it again. 
Prepare a pan deep and wide enough for the bowl to sit in with a lid that will fit over the top. 
Place the pudding bowl in the pan and fill halfway up the bowl with hot water. Place on a medium heat and steam the pudding for at least three hours (although you can steam it for up until five hours), checking every so often to make sure the water hasn’t run dry. 

After three hours, remove the bowl from the pan and serve immediately. If you want to keep it until Christmas day, replace the greaseproof lid and you can add more rum to keep it moist. To reheat, steam it for another hour and a half. 
Serve with brandy butter or clotted cream

Saturday, 22 November 2014

12 Christmas present suggestions for foodies 2014

My annual Christmas list for foodies.

Hatchet and Bear's site is a treat for those who love unique handmade objects, especially from wood. Last year I featured the hand turned wooden bowls from the aptly named Robin Wood; I even use mine in the microwave, for a portion of noodles or porridge. I like the feeling, the sensation of eating from natural materials. One of the most unusual looking objects for sale on the Hatchet and Bear site is the spatula. It looks a bit like an axe. £18

I like turquoise and blue for photographing food. Look for a bowl that has a colour or pattern on the inside rather than the outside. This handmade porcelain pouring bowl by Linda Bloomfield is attractive and useful. £24
Not necessarily something you'd use in the kitchen but a foodie themed 'Elspeth chocolate skirt' from I saw one of the ladies that works with this site wearing a stunning print dress at Britmums Live earlier this year. I discovered quite a few of their clothes; the stripy tights, the nicely shaped cardigans, beautiful shades of petticoat, all quite Sweeney Todd/cartoonish, a look I like. £85 for the skirt and £134 for the dress

I'm a pasta freak and like all the bits and bobs you can buy to make the shapes. How about these rolling pins from to make pappardelle, tagliatelle and spaghetti? £4.50p each
How about a feminist oven glove? From the £11.95
Do you know about Meyer lemons? These perfumed almost sweet lemons are grown in America; any cook, dessert maker, jam and preserve maker or ex-pat American will adore these as a gift. Order them from the, a Californian orchard owned by Karen Morse. (Thanks to Gloria Nicol for alerting me to this). Shipping is included! Between $10 and $65.
 Photo: Gloria Nicol
Now you will need to wrap those presents so how about this incredible Plantable Broccoli Wrapping paper from £4.99 a sheet. Mine has just arrived, it's thick and luxurious. As someone pointed out, it's a gift in itself. Why not give someone a beautiful bunch of broccoli, wrapped in this paper?

A subscription to a food magazine. I suggest Cherry Bombe, a biannual that celebrates women in food. One year $38
Biscuit cushions from Not on the High St. These are cheerful as heck. Just right for lounging on with a cup of tea and a biccy. £22 each
For those foodies who a) like to eat in bed b) and blog about it from the same location, how about this 'ibed lap desk'
"Check your emails or watch a movie whilst your iPad or tablet comfortably sits on your lap along with a bowl of popcorn and a drink. The iBed features padding to comfortably rest on your lap, a slot to firmly hold your iPad and just enough surface space to hold a plate or two. Use it in bed, on the couch or travelling, and with most tablet computers." From the Science Museum £10

I should have put this on my Christmas books list but it's such an important present for a foodie that it deserves a special place here. Any foodie that you buy this for will be forever grateful. Anyone that has ambitions to be a food writer/blogger needs this book. The Oxford Companion to food. £26 or £20 on kindle
A course such as cookery, bread making or food photography would also be welcome for any foodie at Christmas. One is always in a state of learning in cookery. Here are a few suggestions: 
Vanessa Kimbell's food photography course, 8th May 2015 £165, Northhamptonshire
Bake with Maria, baking courses from £85 to £145, London
Cookery, foraging and preserving courses Vale House Kitchen, Somerset. I did the wedding cake course with Sandra Monger £165
Baking, cooking and patisserie courses at Bertinet Kitchen from £35 to £400

Have you any suggestions that a foodie might like for Christmas? Do let me know in the comments.

Thursday, 20 November 2014

17 things I don't like about hotels

I love staying in hotels, I like the non-commitment of it. I love to explore the room, the features, the amenities, the hospitality, the view, the local surroundings, the fact that for once I'm not the one doing the cleaning. But some things do irritate me and here is a quick list.
  • No free wifi. Or no wifi in your room but only in common parts (this is so frequent). Wifi is not a luxury, it's a necessity. Difficult wifi where you need a million logins and passwords to get into it in the first place (we aren't all paedos) and then jumps out if you pause for a minute. 
  • No bottle of water next to the bed. So many hotels don't. People get thirsty in the night.
  • Early breakfast hours.  As a freelance, I don't have to get up early at home why would I want to do that in a hotel when I'm ostensibly supposed to be having a holiday or at least a nice time. Stressful.
  • Crap breakfasts: unimaginative muesli. Discount yoghurts. Cooked breakfasts. Sunny Delight rather than proper orange juice. They always assume everyone wants a full English cooked breakfast. No. I don't want to eat a big fatty meal at that time of morning. Small cups. I like big cups, mugs. And the worst: no marmite. There is never any marmite. Pretty much never. 
  • Awful vending machines. If you are going to have a vending machine then stock good stuff. I actually think fizzy drinks like coke should only used on special occasions, the odd night out or on holiday. (It's incredible to think that some people drink sodas several times a day: this would also be on my list of why young people have bad teeth. None of them drink tea anymore. Badly brought up.)
  • Over-fussy bedcovers. So depressing. They are probably chosen to hide the dirt. The bedcovers in Alaskan hotels were particularly grim. You'd want folky patchwork covers or bear skins or something, but you got old lady nasty fabrics.
  • Noisy air-conditioners. Air-conditioners that you can't figure out how to make work.
  • Noisy fridges. I just pull the plug out.
  • NO conditioner. Anyone would think the world was run by men. Women often have long hair. When you have long hair and you shampoo it, it becomes a tightly-knit fuzz around your scalp. You need conditioner to untangle it, if you try to do it with a comb or brush you tear it. Conditioner is a medical necessity. Oh yeah, and if you were thinking 2 in 1 shampoo/conditioner was sufficient, think again. It's not. It's crap at both shampooing and particularly at conditioning. Again I've noticed that's a short hair/man thing.
  • Bathroom mirrors placed too high. Anyone would think builders are all men. A mirror where I can only see the top/dome of my head is no good to me.
  • Too high showers. Anyone would think the world is designed by tall people (i.e. men). If I stand in a tall shower, by the time the water gets to my body it is a but a thin mist-like spray.
  • Hairs in the bath or sink. Yuck. They are so often left there by the cleaning staff. 
  • Terrible dining. Most of the worst and overpriced restaurants in the world are attached to hotels. Often you get that corporate businessmen's dining: mock Michelin star crap. It's nice however when the hotel restaurant agrees to serve you pudding in bed as recently happened to me. 
  • A fixed TV in the corner that is miles away from your bed. I mean c'mon. One of the luxuries of staying in a hotel is TV in bed. 
  • Good in-room snacks that aren't too expensive. The Ace hotel in Portland had great snacks: artisanal nachos, great salsa, a boutique chocolate bar, some home-made peanut butter cups. 
  •  No tea facilities, particularly in foreign hotels.  In America you sometimes get coffee facilities (but often unworkable). And too few milks. Or even, as in America, no milk. If they know the guest is British, they should put tea and milk in the room.
  • Freezing swimming pools. I stayed in a Cape Town hotel this year where they had an outside pool which was literally ice cold, even though the weather was good. Torture. Plus they had loads of horrible splashy kids threatening to splash you with said ice-cold water. An ordeal. 
  • Being treated as if I don't exist just because I'm a woman travelling on my own. This doesn't frequently happen but it does often enough to mention it here. Standing at reception and being ignored because they think you are the little woman behind the suited-up man standing there. So even if there is more staff, they ignore you.

What drives you crazy about hotels? What do you like to see in a hotel?

Saturday, 15 November 2014

Bloomsbury Secret Tea Party

To celebrate my forthcoming book MsMarmitelover's Secret Tea Party (pre-order now, out November 27th), which has a directory of UK secret teas in the back, I will occasionally be featuring other secret tea parties, that is private tea rooms in people's homes. I did my first secret tea party back in April 2009, a few months after I started my underground restaurant. I've always loved the ritual, the prettiness, the sandwiches and the  baking of afternoon tea. I like to drink multiple cups of tea, from a pot, intermingled with the odd glass of champagne or teapot cocktail. I adore the gossipy potential of afternoon meetings, dressing up for the occasion. 
One such secret tea room is run by Australian cookbook author David Herbert from his house in Norbiton, London. David is a collector and devotee of the Bloomsbury period of art. When you visit his tea room, you are surrounded by valuable china, ceramics, paintings from the Bloomsbury era. You even get to sit on Virginia Woolf's chairs, the seat cushions were sewn by her.
Plus you get exquisite baking, dainty smoked salmon fingers, the lightest sponges, a beautifully decorated cake (David decorated cakes for the Downton Abbey set and this was a similar example) and relentless silver pots of tea (keep 'em coming, that's how I like it). The table was dressed with delicate linens, original Edwardian glassware and enormous brightly coloured dahlias from his garden. 
David has a wonderful eye, he chose the props and backgrounds for the photo shoots for my V is for Vegan book due next spring. It was an education visiting prop houses with him. 
Below is a photo gallery, an unashamed visual feast, a riot of colour and texture, just because his house is so gorgeous, every little bit of it, down to the teaspoons.
Bloomsbury ceramics, stained glass door, David Herberts secret tea

Hand painted lampshades, bloomsbury era,David Herberts secret tea

Mini Victorian sponge, David Herberts secret tea

Blackberry friands, David Herbert's secret tea party

Bloomsbury ceramics, David Herbert's secret tea party

Edwardian glass, David Herbert's secret tea party

Edwardian decorated cake,  David Herbert's secret tea party

slice of cake David Herbert's secret tea party

David Herbert in his garden

salt and pepper collection, ceramics, David Herbert's secret tea party

smoked salmon sandwich,  David Herbert's secret tea party

tiny chocolate croustades, David Herbert's secret tea party

Textiles and colour, David Herbert's secret tea party

Bloomsbury ceramics,David Herbert's secret tea party

Bloomsbury ceramics,  David Herbert's secret tea party

David Herbert meets the Duchess of Cornwall

Virginia Woolfs chair,  David Herbert's secret tea party

bloomsbury ceramics David Herbert's secret tea party

Beautifully laid tea table, bloomsbury ceramics,  David Herbert's secret tea party

Quentin Bell painting, David herbert's Secret tea party
David Herberts Bloomsbury Tea can be booked via

Monday, 10 November 2014

Food/cookbooks to buy for Christmas

This is a selection of books that I have been sent over the last few months rather than the last word in Christmas gifts. But here at least there is more variety than just buying Jamie's latest Christmas opus (he certainly needs no help from the likes of me). This list only has one blockbuster, a reissue of Nigella's Christmas book.
For women who like pretty books:
Nigella Christmas by Nigella Lawson (Chatto & Windus reissued 2014)
Love the new cover of this reissued book.  This is a cookbook that feels like a friend holding your hand, helping you through Christmas, the toughest meal of the year. She may be a cocaine-sniffing, spliff-smoking, mustard-carrying, downtrodden billionaires ex-wife down to her last 20 million quid but Nigella Lawson is a sensualist who loves eating as much as cooking and her writing has an intimacy that makes you feel like you know her. I really like those modern British nature goddesses Nigella, Diana and Cheryl.
What to cook: Christmas sprouts, eggnog syllabub, gleaming maple cheesecake
Three Sisters Bake by Gillian, Nichola and Linsey Reith
As a person who has a fraught relationship with my own sister,  I am starting to think there are altogether too many sisters (and of course they all 'like' each other just like real siblings- NOT) around in the food world right now: those Welsh birds that pretend to be Italian, the Hemsleys and now this lot from Scotland who I've never even heard of. I'm sure they are lovely but their book is soft-focus lifestyley and 'look at us, we are sweet unthreatening girls in every flavour: a blonde and two brunettes'. One for fans of their cafe probably. Nice photos though.
What to cook: giant Empire biscuits

For serious cooks:
Egg by Michael Ruhlman (Little, Brown 2014)
I already have Ruhlman's book Ratio and I enjoy his approach to food writing and cooking. I already have a great book on eggs by Michel Roux, but Michael Ruhlman's heavy and well illustrated volume features many tempting egg recipes, which is saying something, as I don't particularly like eggs.
He divides the recipes into whole and separated eggs, in the shell and out of the shell. He writes about what to do with the yolk and what to do with the white and what to do with a blended egg. He opines on the correct way and difficulty with cooking an omelette or an egg salad, both exquisite examples of simplicity that is hard to get just right. He puzzles that while an egg is perfection design-wise, it is also one of the cheapest ingredients we can buy.
What to cook: Nougat (using the white), traditional Bearnaise sauce (using the yolk), traditional egg flower soup (blended)
La Patisserie des Reves by Philip Contoncini and Thierry Teyssier (Grub St 2014)
Really intimidating super glossy professional patisserie cookbook. One doesn't even dare attempt any of the recipes. Maybe I'll have a bash one day, see if they work. The Japanese love this sort of stuff: tiny, pastel, cute, shiny, perfect pastries and cakes. Unreal. Not sure why the slightly shitty picnic in the park photos are there either, they don't go with the rest of the book.
What to cook: Brown Sugar waffles, Rich coffee log, Sugared almond cake (love sugared almonds).

Books to slip inside your suitcase:
Fragrant Heart by Miranda Emmerson (Summersdale 2014)
This is a first book by Radio 4 journalist Miranda Emmerson recounting a year living in China with her boyfriend before returning home to the UK, settling down with marriage and kids. She also travels to Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam and Malaysia. At the end of each chapter there is a recipe, relevant to the part of Asia she is visiting. Now, we all want to write Nora Ephron's Heartburn or Jorge Amado's Dona Flor and her Two Husbands, both of which combine love and recipes seamlessly and wittily. But this is surprisingly hard to pull off.
As a single mum, I have a hard time with books that talk about partners, it's literally the last thing I want to read about, so for me the boyfriend stuff was off-puttingly co-dependent.  As a first book, it is  bravely honest, and Miranda comes across as rather lonely and vulnerable, making the best of things in a high-rise flat on the outskirts of Beijing while her boyfriend is out at work all day. He irritated me, seeming distant and a bit heartless towards her. (Whether this is a fair reflection of their relationship, I don't know, but I was mentally urging her to be tougher with him). I also felt that the book could have done with some editing. As someone who earns my living from food, I was wondering why I should be following her recipes. Only halfway through the book was the importance of food in her family properly explained, this should have been the first chapter of the book. I found it weird that, as a vegetarian, she was listing meat recipes. (More boyfriend-pleasing behaviour?) Good gift for young marrieds who are going travelling.
What to cook: Pineapple rice, Fish fragrant aubergine
The 100 foot journey by Richard C. Morais
This is currently my tube book. It's so beautifully written, the descriptions of food preparation, cooking and buying at the market are virtuoso. I hate unnecessary adjectives but Morais knows how to make them work in prose, he paints pictures with words, you can see the scene before your eyes as you read. I saw the film which was a lovingly photographed, feel-good couple of hours.
What to cook: no recipes, but you will be dying for a curry the whole time you read it so stock up and prepare.

Sous chef by Michael Gibney (Canongate books 2014)
This is the kind of book that blokes really like. It's all macho cooking, male bonding, gee I'm so tough stuff, over the steel counters of a pro kitchen, then getting drunk afterwards. He only gets to see his girlfriend for about five minutes a day. It is well written and takes you through 24 hours 'on the line' in a high pressure kitchen; the hierarchy, tasting the ingredients, the suppliers, the cliques (the latinos basically running the whole caboodle). This is updated Kitchen Confidential land but you get the feeling Michael Gibney takes himself more seriously as a writer and a cook than Anthony Bourdain. I did feel like yelling at him 'go home and get some sleep you silly billy' at the end of the book when he's burning the candle at both ends.

For your Christmas stocking:
The Kitchen Magpie by James Steen (Icon books 2014)
Being a small handy size, with a hardback, this is a really good Christmas stocking/loo book. You can dip in and out, gleaning intriguing bits of info, cookery tips from famous chefs, lists and handy hints. A good present for dads who like to cook.
What to cook: Earl Grey sorbet, 3 types of Mauritian chutney
Sushi at home by Yuki Gomi (Fig Tree 2013)
Well designed with clear instructions, this is the best book I've read on sushi making. One for fans of Japanese food.
What to cook: beans with black sesame sauce, soba sushi, pressed trout cakes with bamboo leaves
Perfect Preserves by Thane Prince (Hodder and Staughton 2014)
The gorgeously statuesque Thane Prince (woman of a certain age who is still stunning) is a presenter of The big allotment challenge but also a veteran cookery book writer and columnist. Here she brings all her experience to the subject of preserves. There are interesting recipes which I'm going to spend some of the winter tackling. Fantastic for those with allotments who need to use up excess fruits and vegetables. I've always wanted to write a book on condiments, I'm a bit condimental, and this book is very much along the lines of the book that I would have liked to have written. Well done Thane!
What to cook: Spiced pumpkin and maple syrup butter, chestnut and vanilla conserve, rhubarb and custard curd, to name but a few.

For stove-side travelling cooks:
Morito by Sam & Sam Clark (Ebury 2014)
Intriguing but at the same time fairly simple Hispanic/North African recipes from the 'Moro' duo.
What to cook: squid ink rolls
 Pizza, a slice of American history by Liz Barrett (Voyageur Press 2014)
a) I love the idea that you can be a 'pizza journalist'. b) pizza is actually quite hard to make well at home c) she talks about the different types of pizza (New York Neopolitan style pizza; Chicago deep dish; Newhaven, thick Sicilian 'grandma' pizza; topping-heavy Californian) that exist in America. There are chapters devoted to the sauce, the cheese, the dough plus interviews with chefs and other pizza journalists. A fascinating read by an expert in their subject and while the photos and design leave something to be desired, this is a great gift for dads, pizza freaks, food anthropology students.
What to cook: St Louis style pizza, tomato pie

For hosts and hostesses:
Treat Petite by Fiona Pearce (Ivy Press 2014)
Beautifully designed little gift book with canapes and miniature versions of dishes, including a 'life-size' photo. I haven't cooked anything from it yet, but I can see myself delving into this ahead of a party.
What to cook: miniature Victoria sponges, polka dot lemon shortbreads
Party-perfect bites by Milli Taylor (Ryland, Peters and Small 2014)
Again, a great book, with gorgeous photography, for inspirational ideas on what to make for parties. The book is divided into chapters based on regions such as India, Asia, North African, The Americas, Scandinavian, Mediterranean, dips and sweets so it's very easy to find something appropriate to the occasion. Milli also does Secret tea parties, see her site here to book.
What to cook: borek, pani puri (dying to try these)

For drinkers:
Natural Wine by Isabelle Legeron (Cico books 2014)
I've been on a couple of natural wine trips (Georgia, Slovenia) with Isabelle Legeron and so have seen up close how passionate and knowledgeable she is about natural wine. Therefore I was excited to see this well designed book explaining the history and provenance of natural wine. She divides wine into the classic sparkling, red, white and rose but also expounds upon 'orange' wine. She explains the difference between natural, organic and biodynamic wines. In the wine world natural wine is rather a controversial subject, it can be a rough and ready shock compared to the bland homogenised modern wine industry. Natural wine is like punk rock to the wine industry; young, uncultured and raw; like punk, its influence will filter through to the mainstream, no doubt.
Artisan Drinks by Lindy Wildsmith (Quarry Books 2014)
Beautifully styled and photographed book. There are recipes for alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks including cordials, shrubs, syrups, liqueurs, nogs, fizzes, sherbets, waters, beers, spritzes, digestifs, punches, cups, coolers, sodas, cocktails, infusions, tisanes and wines. Fascinating!
What to make: Venetian eggnog, May's dandelion, ginger and liquorice beer. Everything!
For gardening cooks:
Kitchen Garden Experts by Cinead McTernan (Frances Lincoln 2014)
If I were to write a gardening and food book it wouldn't be dissimilar to this lovely volume. There are visits to famous kitchen gardens such as that of The Ethicurean, Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons (Raymond Blanc), The Pig hotel, River Cottage, L'enclume (Simon Rogan) to name but a few. This book is just as foodie as green-fingered so a great gift for cooks while giving advice on gardening. It's also nicely illustrated with photographs with an easy-to-read lay-out.
What to cook: The George and Dragon's baked gooseberries with lemon verbena icecream and flapjack, Skye Gyngells' plum and almond flan

What books on food or drink have you bought this year? Any particular recommendations?