Wednesday, 15 March 2017

Pimp my ramen

 Different kinds of ramen.
 Different kinds of ramen
 Ramen +: A selection of fresh ingredients from my fridge including butter.
 Ramen +: A selection of fresh ingredients from my fridge including butter
 Close up of dry ramen with their respective fresh ingredients
 Dry ramen with their respective fresh ingredients
 Dry ramen with their respective fresh ingredients
ramen bowls

Ramen hacks

I think it was Gwyneth Paltrow who said something like 'I'd rather kill myself than feed my kids Pot Noodle'. Sorry Gwynie, but I beg to differ - noodles are one of the greatest modern food inventions.

Recently in the news, according to a new book Prison Ramen, the most valuable thing you can trade in prison these days is not cigarettes but ramen. This is understandable. Boring food and no access to a kitchen must be one of the most frustrating things about being in prison. Ramen is the simplest no cook meal you can make, all you need is a boiling water. Ramen is so easy to pimp. Kylie Jenner shared her ramen tricks recently by snapchatting how she pimps ramen with butter, garlic and egg. I tried it and it was pretty good.
I tried a few different brands of ramen from cheapo to posh. I've been told by Asian friends that Korean ramen is the best because it's 'bouncier'. Ramen can be improved with fresh ingredients to take away from that slight cardboardy feel.
Pimping ramen is a 6 stage process, taking only 10 minutes.
1) Place the ramen in a bowl.
2) Open the sachets that come with it; usually you have a powdered soup, sometimes a packet of oil and rarely a sachet of chilli. I open the powdered soup if it is vegetarian flavour but you could dispense with that and use a stock cube.
3) Boil a kettle and pour it into the bowl of ramen.
4) In the meantime prep the vegetables.
I use tofu cubes, carrot strips, spring onion, red pepper, mushrooms - anything you find in your fridge.
5) Improve the flavour by adding a grating of ginger or fresh turmeric or garlic. Add some fresh herbs like coriander or lime leaves and a squeeze of lemon or lime.
6) Finally a dash of soy sauce, sesame oil or ponzu, a delicious citrussy soy sauce. You can buy it cheaply  in supermarkets now. These really makes ramen sing!

Here are four ideas for ramen bowls.

Kylie Jenner adds a big knob of butter, some garlic and a raw egg to her ramen. 
You can add carrot, spring onion, lime leaf, chilli. 
Or red peppers, tofu, coriander, ginger and avocado on top. 
Or coriander, broccoli, seaweed, turmeric.

Thursday, 9 March 2017

Poutine cheese curds, the search and the recipe for Canada's comfort food


A year ago I visited Canada, discovered how maple syrup was extracted from trees and ate poutine, a messy but comforting national dish, consisting of chips, gravy and squeaky cheese curds.
Inspired I've just hosted a Canadian-themed Sugar Shack Supper Club. I had one difficulty: obtaining the cheese curds for poutine. I discovered that the only place in the UK that made authentic cheese curds was Goulds in Glastonbury. Dedicated chef that I am, I made the 7 hour drive.  On my arrival, head cheesemaker Dan Poole explained:
"Canada is a cheddar producing country and essentially cheese curds are unpressed cheddar cheese. You split the curds from the whey. It's how you treat the curd that makes it cheddar. It's stacking it up and flipping it to build the acidity, this is what is known as cheddaring. Canadians flock to buy our cheese curds, they love it. "
The cheese curds are a first step in the cheddar making process prior to pressing the 27 kilo cylinder moulds into a traditional truckle.
Gould's are one of the original Cheddar making families along with the Keens and the Godminsters. 
"The Gould style of cheddar is buttery smooth with nice caramel tones. Even when it's extra mature, the smoothness remains. The older cheddar attains a nutty flavour." says Dan as we sample the different flavours and strengths of their cheese.
Jean Gould Turner inherited the cheese making part of the farm, named Batch farm, after her father's death while her brother Fred took over the herd.
Now 62 years old, Jean is the longest standing female cheddar maker, rising at 5 am every morning, able to lift a 27 kilo truckle with one hand. Dan is full of admiration for Jean:
"Jean is hard as nails, she knows everything there is to know about cheddar."
I see large brass instruments in Jean's house across the road, the old school house, where we eat a 'poutine' lunch. Jean Gould Turner plays in a brass band in her spare time.
Dan laughs:
"We are all musicians here. I'm a drummer. My assistant is a guitarist. We do a stall at Glastonbury festival every year selling curds and cheese toasties. Later we'll get up and do a gig on one of the stages."
So where can Londoners get cheese curds to make their own poutine? Every week Gould's drive up to North London, to the farmer's markets at Parliament Hill, Islington and Queen's Park. To pre-order the curds email shop@gouldscheddar.co.uk. Cheese curds have a shelf life of five days but can be frozen (but they may lose some of their squeakiness).

Poutine recipe

poutine

Equipment:
Deep fat fryer or deep frying pan with chip basket.
Kitchen towel.

Serves 4

Ingredients:

For the chips:

1.5 kilos of frying potatoes such as Maris Piper, peeled and cut into thick chips
3 litres of vegetable oil
Sea salt
500g cheese curds

For the gravy:

2 tbsp of olive oil or 30g of butter
4 shallots, finely chopped
1 clove of garlic, minced
1 fresh bay leaf
2 tbsp of plain flour
2 tbsp of soy sauce
250g of fresh mushrooms of your choice, sliced thinly
a glass of red wine or half a glass of sherry
500ml of good quality vegetable stock (Marigold is good)
A few drops of truffle oil (optional)

400g cheese curds

The ideal chips are twice cooked. Here is the method:

Bring your oil up to 145Cº. Have a wide tray or plate covered with kitchen towel next to your fryer.
Fry your chips for around five minutes until they turn slightly translucent. Drain the chips and lay them out in one layer on the kitchen paper. Sprinkle with good sea salt.
Leave to rest for 15 minutes.
In the meantime make the gravy.
Add the oil or butter to a medium saucepan on a medium heat.
Soften the shallots until golden then add the garlic and bay leaf.
Sprinkle the flour into the mixture, stirring rapidly, then add the soy sauce and mushrooms.
Add the red wine then the stock, stirring.
Cook until thickened, add the truffle oil if you want a touch of luxury. Set aside.

Raise the temperature of the fryer to 180cº. Put the chips back in the fryer and fry until golden. Replace the kitchen paper on the tray and when the chips are cooked, tip them onto the fresh kitchen paper. Blot them and plate them.
Pour the gravy on top ( you won't use all of it).
Add the cheese curds and serve hot.

This dish can be reheated in the microwave.

Saturday, 4 March 2017

An artist's hotel in Valladolid, Yucatan and a recipe for pumpkin seed dip (green recado)



Valladolid is a small quiet colonial town in the interior of the Yucatan peninsula of Mexico. which is very pleasant and manageable to wander around and pass away the hours people watching while sipping a cooling jugo de Jamaica (hibiscus tea). Also known as the 'sultan of the east', Valladolid is one of those places where you just feel good. There aren't too many tourists, the people are nice and you feel safe. I often find I have my most authentically 'real' experiences in small towns, after the hustle and hoopla of the hot spots. It's a chance to see the natural daily rhythms of the locals where foreigners do not distort the perspective. There are tourists in Valladolid, but people tend to pass through quickly. 

Things to see and do in Valladolid:



  • The main cathedral San Gervasio in the main town square is worth a visit.
  • Cenotes, such as Cenote Zaki, which are natural pools, some underground. There are cenotes in town and in the surrounding areas. 
  • Ruins such as Chichen Itza, Ek Balam and Coba.  

An artist's hotel

I stayed at a wonderful hotel Project Zentik, a ten minute walk from the centre of Valladolid. Each room and the public areas were decorated by a different artist. In fact if you are an artist, they will offer a stay in exchange for a mural. Get in touch with them here:  reservas@zentik.com.mx
This hotel offers a welcome bowl of tequila and as part of the delicious breakfast, tequila coffee and pumpkin jam on toast.  As they were building the hotel they discovered an underground cenote beneath, which guests can use as well as the swimming pools. The staff are particularly helpful and friendly. 

What to buy in the market:

The central market in Valladolid sells cheap and instagram swoon-worthy white stone molcajetes, the traditional heavy-weight Mexican pestle and mortar. (I bought one and because I couldn't fit it in my check-in luggage it was confiscated as a dangerous weapon, so make sure you wrap it and check it in). 
Other market treasures include various pastes which they call 'recado'. Bought by weight, recados come in green, red or black and keep for a long time. The red is made with achiote, the black with roasted chillies and the green from pumpkin seeds (recipe below). 
Buy jicama (again check it in), poblano mild chillies and entire pumpkins infused with syrup. 
I also bought seeds for growing Mexican vegetables and home-made chilli sauces.
I saw several whole agave or honey candied pumpkins with holes drilled in the bottom. These are October/November seasonal treats made for the Day of the Dead. Various gossiping Mayan grandmas gave me instructions on how to make this.
There is also a craft market near the main town square where you can buy light-weight colourful hammacks, Mayan style dresses and artisanal wares.

Pictures at the Market at Valladolid

valladolid market, mexico
chillies, valladolid market, mexico
selling recado valladolid market, mexico
jicama, valladolid market, mexico

Calabaza en tacha, candied whole pumpkin. Another recipe I must try. 

Recipe for Mayan pumpkin seed dip 'Sikil pak'or green recado

Mayan pumpkin seed dip or Sibil pak

A recado has several uses: 
  • can be used as a dip
  • watered down and used as a sauce 
  • blended with oil to make a marinade
  • added to stews such as pipian (recipe soon). 

Everyone makes a different recado, every cook has a different spin. This is one option.

150g pumpkin seeds, toasted if you wish (I don't wish)
2tbsp sesame seeds
2tbsp groundnut oil
1tbsp pumpkin seed oil
1 jalapeno, toasted, deseeded
2 tomatillos (optional), dehusked, roasted lightly
3 cloves garlic
1tsp Mexican oregano
1tsp cumin, ground
1tsp white pepper, ground
1 clove
1/4tsp cinnamon, ground
1tsp sea salt
Handful coriander leaves

Blend all ingredients together and salt to taste.

Wednesday, 1 March 2017

5 recipes from my Flavorking plum supper club


Prosecco with plum syrup
~
Plum-cured cold smoked salmon canapés
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Mushroom and tofu gyoza with plum sauce and purple sweet potato and blood orange
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Sea bass en papillote on a bed of plum noodles with umeboshi plums and bergamot zest with plum salsa
~
Goulds cheddar cheese board with plum fruit leather and plum pickled burdock root
~
Plum clafoutis
Plum meringues
~

I was commissioned to create a supper club menu around the Flavorking plum. This South African plum, which has a short three week season in early spring, is a combination of plum and apricot, often referred to as a 'pluot' or 'plumcot'. This ingredient is beloved of chefs and keen cooks, and has a slight bubblegum flavour.

I love creating a menu celebrating a single ingredient - it pushes me to be creative. I like to incorporate it in every course from the welcome cocktail to the canapés, through the starter and main course, ending with cheese and dessert. I complemented the Flavorking with plummy ingredients from Asian cuisine, where the plum is often used in savoury dishes.

Mushroom and tofu wontons with plum sauce

This is a tweak on a previous recipe.

Makes 24

Recipe for gyoza:

3tbsp of sesame oil

2 cloves of garlic, minced

1 thumb of ginger, peeled and minced

1tbsp of sugar

3tbsp of dark soy sauce

1tsp of 5 spice

1tsp of cornflour

1 block of firm tofu

4 spring onions, the white part, sliced, keep the green part for garnishing

250g shiitake or other mushrooms, sliced finely

1 packet of gyoza skins or Chinese wonton skins


Recipe for plum sauce:

10 plums or pluots, blanched, skin off, stone out

5 cloves of garlic, minced

1 small red onion, diced

1 thumb of fresh ginger, peeled with a teaspoon and minced

3 star anise

2tbsp of sugar

200ml of sherry vinegar


Make the plum sauce first to get it out of the way. Make a cross on each of the plums with a knife. Boil a kettle of water, pour into a heat proof bowl as soon as boiled and plunge the plums into the bowl. Within a minute the skin should start to unfurl from the crosses and you can get to work taking the skin off. Remove the pits too.

Then put all of the ingredients into a medium saucepan and heat until the plums break down a little, say 10 to 15 minutes. Place all the ingredients into a powerful blender such as a Vitamix or use a hand blender and mix at high speed. Taste the sauce to see if it needs anything more - you are looking for a sweet sour zing. Pour the ingredients into a chinois or sieve and let it drip into a bowl overnight. You will end up with a clear syrupy sauce.

For the gyoza:

Make the filling. Put all of the ingredients until the tofu into a hot wok or frying pan and sizzle for a couple of minutes. Strain the tofu of all water and dice it. If the tofu is soft, place it on your hand and cut it on your hand then tip it into the wok. Fry the tofu for five minutes, then add the spring onions an mushrooms. The mushrooms will release a lot of liquid. Fry until the mushrooms seem cooked, for about 3-5 minutes, then prepare a jug or bowl with a sieve or chinoise. Put all the mixture into the sieve and let the excess liquid drain out. You don't want a very liquid filling as the gyoza skins will not hold it.

Make a little gyoza filling station on a table. Kids and friends can join in with this and more hands make quick work. Get a small bowl of egg white or a bowl of water (if you are vegan) next to each person. Take a stack of gyoza skins for each person. Put the large bowl of cooled filling in the middle and give each person a teaspoon. For pictures see here.

Lay out the gyoza skin and dip your finger into the egg white or water, run it around the border of the gyoza/pot sticker/chinese dumpling/wonton skin. Put a heaped teaspoon of filling into the middle then seal the gyoza according to the pictures below. You want four folds on one side, which creates a crescent shaped dumpling.

Store them on a tray sprinkled generously with white flour, rice or wheat, so that they won't stick to the bottom when you remove them to steam.

Boil a kettle. On a medium to low heat, place a non stick or well seasoned cast iron frying pan with a lid and add a little vegetable or groundnut oil. When the oil is hot, place the gyoza carefully into the pan, making sure they don't touch, and fry the bottoms until golden, 3 to 5 minutes, then add a couple of centimetres (an inch) of boiling water from the kettle. Stand back as this may splatter a little. Put the lid on. Then steam for 5 minutes or so. Using a fish slice, remove the gyoza and add a few more drops of oil, start the next batch. continue until you have finished all the filled gyoza.

Serve them hot with the reserved green part of the spring onion and the plum dipping sauce.

Purple sweet potato and blood orange salad


This is a colourful winter salad. You can also use orange sweet potatoes, but I like the contrast in colours. I ordered the purple sweet potatoes from Riverford Organics. Blood oranges haven't been very bloody this winter due to too much rain.

Serves 4

3 long thin sweet potatoes, washed
3 blood oranges, peeled, segmented
Juice of 1 lime
1tsp sea salt
1 red chilli, finely sliced
A handful of coriander leaves

Place the whole sweet potatoes into a medium saucepan onto a high heat. Do not remove the skins as this will leach some of the purple pigment. (When I cook blue, purple or red potatoes, I always boil with the skins left on). Boil for 15 to 20 minutes until a fork enters the potato easily. Remove from the heat and drain the sweet potatoes. Peel them with your fingers when cool enough to handle. Slice into pound coin thick slices. Set aside to cool.

Prepare the oranges by peeling with a knife then segmenting. This technique is known as 'supreme' and you can look at Youtube videos to learn how. However if you can't be bothered to do that, you can also cut the potatoes and oranges into chunks, as in the picture above.

Mix the orange segments with the cooled sweet potatoes and add the juice of a lime. Add the salt, chilli and coriander. Toss and serve.


Sea bass en papillote with plum noodles, umeboshi plums and plum salsa




Serves 4

Equipment:

4 squares of parchment paper

4 larger squares of tin foil

Baking tray

For the fish:

200g soba noodles with plum extract, briefly blanched in hot water, drained

2tbsp of groundnut oil

Zest of 2 bergamots or citron beldi (use the juice of one and thinly slice for other)

4 umeboshi plums, chopped finely

4 sea bass filets, skinned, boned

2tsp sea salt


For the plum salsa:

4 Flavorking plums, stoned

1/2 red onion, diced

1 jalapeno chilli, roasted, seeded, thinly sliced

Juice of 1 lime

1.5tsp sea salt

Handful of coriander


Preheat the oven to 200ºC. Put the soba noodles into a large saucepan of boiling salted water on a high heat. 'Blanch', that is, boil, for 60 seconds, then drain into a colander and rinse with cold water. Toss in a bowl with 2 tbsp of groundnut oil, the zest of 2 bergamots and the juice of 1 bergamot. (Use lemons when bergamots are out of season; Meyer lemon is also acceptable.) 


Place the smaller squares of parchment paper onto the larger squares of tin foil. Place a quarter of the noodles onto one of your squares of parchment paper. Add 1 umeboshi plum chopped finely (this is very salty so if you don't use this, season your fish with salt). Then add the sea bass filet on top. Add a slice of bergamot to the top of the fish and close the tin foil packet. 


Place all four filets into the baking tin and roast for 15 to 20 minutes. Using a digital thermometer, stick it straight through the foil into the fish - if it's over 60ºC, it's cooked.


Remove from the oven, open the packets and remove the parchment paper, topped with noodles and fish straight onto the plate. Discard the tin foil. Serve hot as is.



Plum fruit leather




This is a tweak on a previous recipe. I put these fruit rolls on the cheeseboard.

Makes 3 or 4 sheets

1 kilo of plums, stoned
4tbsp of honey, maple syrup or agave nectar

Optional add ons:
2tsp citric acid
2tsp freeze dried raspberry
2tsp black sesame seeds
2tsp black poppy seeds

Preheat the oven to 100ºC. I am lucky enough to have a very powerful blender, a Vitamix, which meant that I didn't have to skin the plums. Otherwise, make crosses on the top of each plum, with a knife, and leave them for 30 seconds in boiling water. The skin should come off easily. Remove the stones.


With a powerful blender, pulse the flesh, then add agave, honey or maple syrup. You can use sugar but honey or agave means that there is less chance of crystallisation than with sugar. You also have the choice of putting in less sweetener or none at all.


Prepare a flat baking tray with a Silpat silicone mat. With a spatula, spread out the plum purée to about 1/4 inch or 1/2 cm thick. You want it thin enough to dry out but not so thin that you do not have a 'rollable' leather. Make sure you can't see through the purée and remember it will contract as it dries.
To one sheet I added citric acid to get that fizzy sour flavour, on another I added freeze dried raspberries. I scattered black sesame seeds over the pulp for a final sheet. I also tried black poppy seeds. I put the fruit in a low oven, 100ºc for several hours. I kept checking hourly. It's hard to say exactly how long it will take but you could put it in for 2 or 3 hours on 100ºc then turn the oven off and leave it overnight to dry out. 


When it's sufficiently dried out, carefully peel the leather off the silicone sheet and place it onto parchment paper. Cut it into strips and roll it. This is also a perfect lunchbox snack for schoolchildren.



Plum clafoutis

This elegant but practical oven to table baking dish is by Sophie Conran at Portmeirion


Ingredients

10 large ripe plums, in this case Sapphire plums, cut in half and stoned

20g butter for greasing

4 eggs

150g caster sugar

50g plain flour

600ml double cream

Prepare the plums by cutting them in half along the dimple from the root and twisting. Remove the pits.
You'll need a buttered/greased baking dish/tray of approximately 25cm x 30cm.
Preheat the oven to 180ºC.
Place the plums, cut side down, in the baking tray.
Whisk the eggs then add the sugar. Slowly sift in the flour, while stirring, then add the cream, whisking thoroughly.
Pour the batter over the fruit.
Bake in the oven for 30 minutes or until set.