Wednesday, 20 October 2010

New cooking: Dominic South at Visitor boat

Grating truffles

'Visitor boat' is the sparsely named location, although it's glorious, wedged into a community of houseboats, Tower Bridge, the iconic London landmark looming overhead. Young Dominic South is cooking in his friend's boat, a converted coal barge. The gangway is so narrow his friends, set builders and 'makers' had to build the tables inside.
The pine and plywood tables and walls are plain and seaworthy but the service is sumptuous, begloved waiters and waitresses grating fresh truffles and serving exquisite sauces from tiny copper pans at your tableside. The floor tilts as the tide lowers; the food is light, pretty, almost feminine and resolutely modern.

Dominic has earnt his chops at Michelin star restaurants, Hibiscus, Nobu and Tom Aikens. Supper clubs have enabled talented young chefs to take a bow, present their own food, rather than inch their way up their hierarchy, crossing their fingers for angelic investors.
Greenbean and lemongrass soup with almond foam
Salad of pickled baby artichokes, confit melon, pink grapefruit, raw button mushroom and herbs from the garden.
The Garden being upstairs, on the deck of the boat. If you go, do have a look, it's lush and exotic. This boat community takes turns to maintain the 'common' spaces. The posh converted warehouse flats overlooking complain of an 'eyesore'. Just goes to show, you can know the price of everything but the value of nothing.
Stuffed sea bream, carrot and orange puree, young carrots and gingerbread sauce. Perfectly cooked fish. 
Slow cooked lamb, summer vegetables, lemon and garlic puree, cumin sauce. Real skill and pretty plating.
The Egg.
Now here's the showstopper. 'Chips' made from fried white bread and an egg made from a delicate cream and mango puree. Stunning. We needed a box each really.

 And finally, Marshmallows. I've made these, but they weren't as soft as Dominic's elderflower, hibiscus and lemon version. 

Visitor boat has other chefs taking a turn, one from Nobu soon while Dominic will return from Antigua where he is presently cooking, in December.

Garden on the deck

6 course tasting menu: £40 BYO no corkage.


  1. A marvellous, delicious and expertly crafted meal, aided by a brilliant setting. The Visitor experience is one not to be missed! Highly recommended.

  2. What a great review; excellent and lovely photography!

  3. Sorry, but it looks pathetic and pretentious.

  4. Where in Antigua ? I was sent this & I live in Antigua & would love to find him in December

  5. im working in carlisle bay, please email me for more info.

  6. wow! I love the sound of this...may have to try it out asap! xxx

  7. Earnt his chops at Hibiscus and Aikens more liked couldnt handle the pace and walked out on us..Left Hibiscus mid Christmas..bravo chef bravo.....

  8. This man cant cook at all! His food is crap!


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